I'm really pissed at my geforce gtx 580 video card from nvidia. Why? Because every singel time I try play a game (C&C 3 and BF3 mainly) the VC crashes. Before VC crashes, artifact pops on the screen and everything turns black and the program shuts down. If I'm lucky I can play the game for 5 mins before crash.
The SmartDoctor says it's the fans which isn't working properly but they do as I can see it. While the actually proplems where the drivers but I have already installed latest version.
Most annoying thing of all I just got it back from service and they said everything is fixed and is working. They said it was some sort of bug with the drivers and the power output wasn't enough. Now then if it was fixed then why do I have the same problems?
I'm still looking around for solution for this. If someone had similar kind of problem please tell and how did you fix it?
The SmartDoctor says it's the fans which isn't working properly but they do as I can see it. While the actually proplems where the drivers but I have already installed latest version.
Most annoying thing of all I just got it back from service and they said everything is fixed and is working. They said it was some sort of bug with the drivers and the power output wasn't enough. Now then if it was fixed then why do I have the same problems?
I'm still looking around for solution for this. If someone had similar kind of problem please tell and how did you fix it?
You sent just the card in, right?
Anyway... You sure your PSU is rated high enough for the card and the entire system? Recall that high-end GPU's can suck up nearly 300Watts of power under full load.
Even if your PSU is RATED high enough, the real question is it ACTUALLY capable of providing that power constantly (and cleanly.) Suffice to say a 500-Watt rated PSU doesn't necessarily output 500 Watts. That rating could be PEAK, not constant/true load. There's also the question of power quality from the PSU, especially under load and when it's near max capacity.
Oh, and probably dumb, but have you checked the power coming out your wall? A guy I know was having issues with his brand new, custom-built PC. All the hardware checked out. The culprit was the power line leading to the room/socket the system was plugged into. Had to get electrical work done on the house instead.
Anyway... You sure your PSU is rated high enough for the card and the entire system? Recall that high-end GPU's can suck up nearly 300Watts of power under full load.
Even if your PSU is RATED high enough, the real question is it ACTUALLY capable of providing that power constantly (and cleanly.) Suffice to say a 500-Watt rated PSU doesn't necessarily output 500 Watts. That rating could be PEAK, not constant/true load. There's also the question of power quality from the PSU, especially under load and when it's near max capacity.
Oh, and probably dumb, but have you checked the power coming out your wall? A guy I know was having issues with his brand new, custom-built PC. All the hardware checked out. The culprit was the power line leading to the room/socket the system was plugged into. Had to get electrical work done on the house instead.
I know this might be heresy as i haven't seen a single Mac posted.. but here's my systems:
2009 Mac Pro dual quad core Xeon @ 2.26Ghz, with 14 Gb DDR3 1066mhz Ram
256GB SSD for the OS and applications,
2 x 2TB Drives in JBOD configuration for user data, with 228Gb free.
320Gb Drive with Windows 7 Pro 64 bit as a dual boot.
2 x AMD Radeon HD 5770 1024 MB, each card is driving a single 24 inch display.
Early 2011 17" Macbook Pro 2.3 Ghz Core i7 with 16GB 1666mhz DDR3 RAM
512Gb SSD for OS, Apps and User data
AMD Radeon HHD 6750M 1024MB
I really need to get off my duff and get the second SSD for the Laptop so it can dual boot as well,
as DVD burners are overrated/dont live long in my laptops based on past history.
2009 Mac Pro dual quad core Xeon @ 2.26Ghz, with 14 Gb DDR3 1066mhz Ram
256GB SSD for the OS and applications,
2 x 2TB Drives in JBOD configuration for user data, with 228Gb free.
320Gb Drive with Windows 7 Pro 64 bit as a dual boot.
2 x AMD Radeon HD 5770 1024 MB, each card is driving a single 24 inch display.
Early 2011 17" Macbook Pro 2.3 Ghz Core i7 with 16GB 1666mhz DDR3 RAM
512Gb SSD for OS, Apps and User data
AMD Radeon HHD 6750M 1024MB
I really need to get off my duff and get the second SSD for the Laptop so it can dual boot as well,
as DVD burners are overrated/dont live long in my laptops based on past history.
Don't worry. Shuugo, the Admin/Owner, uses Macs.
Hmm my PSU is 750W and the input and output from it is right as far I can tell. May be it's my mother board. I have to look more into and the BIOS. Thanks anyway Stahn.
Well, you might wanna check the power rail ratings as well. PSU at that rating usually have power spread over several distro rails, each having it's own power rating. Make sure you're not overloading a single rail (i.e. spread the loads out if you can) if that's the case.
It could be something in the MB BIOS (though possibly rare). Have you flashed the BIOS to the latest version? That's one of the first things I do/check (usually after OS install. I use Intel-made boards. They do issue a simple Windows installer for BIOS updates. It's either that or grab the ISO, burn to disc, and boot from CD.)
Good luck!
It could be something in the MB BIOS (though possibly rare). Have you flashed the BIOS to the latest version? That's one of the first things I do/check (usually after OS install. I use Intel-made boards. They do issue a simple Windows installer for BIOS updates. It's either that or grab the ISO, burn to disc, and boot from CD.)
Good luck!
Yes, I know I'm resurrecting a dead thread, but I figure that this is the most appropriate place to ask.
I keep getting the blue screen of death everytime I turn on my computer. If I were to uninstall and reinstall my operating system would this fix it? Pardon me if this is a stupid question. I'm very dim when it comes to technology.
I keep getting the blue screen of death everytime I turn on my computer. If I were to uninstall and reinstall my operating system would this fix it? Pardon me if this is a stupid question. I'm very dim when it comes to technology.
Well you could be dealing with dead RAM. Try running memtest on it before doing anything to your OS.Cade said:
Yes, I know I'm resurrecting a dead thread, but I figure that this is the most appropriate place to ask.
I keep getting the blue screen of death everytime I turn on my computer. If I were to uninstall and reinstall my operating system would this fix it? Pardon me if this is a stupid question. I'm very dim when it comes to technology.
If you could tell us the message and code on the BSoD, some of use could try to decipher it for you so you have a solid path of troubleshooting to start on.
Well the blue screen has stopped showing itself for whatever reason. I expect it to be back within the next few days though. It's been poping up for irregular periods of time for the last few weeks.
I'm thinking mainly on the RAM you have. How much RAM do you have btw and how old is your computer?
Another thing can be the CPU though but more unlikely.
Another thing can be the CPU though but more unlikely.
512 MB of RAM. It's 5 years old I think.
Then the main problem probably lies with the RAM. Many programs today easily can make it up to 1 RAM depending what program and how many you use (even webbrowsers). Also since you computer is little old can be other problems since it have passed it golden days of use. I can guess it's pretty slow right?
If it's intermittent, it could be a hardware problem (esepcially given the age you provided of your system). However, BSoDs tend to be software issue more often than not.
I'd start backing up data off the HDD you want to keep and start running diagnostics. A thorough CHKDSK scan on the HDD after back up. After that would be a MEMTEST, perhaps.
The next time you see the BSoD, make sure to write down the error message you see. It'll help others help you as well as let you know if you are getting a consistent error if you repeatedly get BSoDs.
If it's intermittent, I would lean more to hardware failure. HDD could be failing or RAM could be going. There's also software misconfiguration, but those tend to be very consistent faults and errors, not intermittent.
Actually, what OS are you running? I'm assuming WinXP given your RAM size and PC age, no? Oh, and have you run system-wide virus and malware scans yet?
I'd start backing up data off the HDD you want to keep and start running diagnostics. A thorough CHKDSK scan on the HDD after back up. After that would be a MEMTEST, perhaps.
The next time you see the BSoD, make sure to write down the error message you see. It'll help others help you as well as let you know if you are getting a consistent error if you repeatedly get BSoDs.
EDIT:
RAM amount ususally isn't the cause for BSoDs (especially on boot-up) unless you're running some very poorly written applications/programs. Even then, you'd have to get to the point when the system can run those apps to cause the fault (i.e. you usually have to get into the OS. Boot screen at least.)If it's intermittent, I would lean more to hardware failure. HDD could be failing or RAM could be going. There's also software misconfiguration, but those tend to be very consistent faults and errors, not intermittent.
Actually, what OS are you running? I'm assuming WinXP given your RAM size and PC age, no? Oh, and have you run system-wide virus and malware scans yet?
FoliFF said:
I can guess it's pretty slow right?
Yes, yes, and yes.StahnAileron said:
I'm assuming WinXP given your RAM size and PC age, no? Oh, and have you run system-wide virus and malware scans yet?
lol And I shall google HDD, CHKSK scans, and memtest and see if I'm competent enough to do anything.
Memtest is easy enough, you burn the ISO in a CD and boot from it.Cade said:
Yes, yes, and yes.
lol And I shall google HDD, CHKSK scans, and memtest and see if I'm competent enough to do anything.
To run CHKDSK:
- Open "My Computer"
- Right-click on the "C:\" disk/partition and go to "Properties"
- Go to the "Tools" tab
- Do the "Error-checking" option
- On the mini-window that pops up, check both option and do the scan
- It'll tell you to reboot in order to do the scan. Do so.
- Go do something else until the scan is done (this will take a while depending on the drive size and how much data is on it.)
HDD = Hard Disk Drive ^_^
Shuugo covered Memtest. I haven't had to run it myself (I switch systems and/or RAM every few years).
get more RAM. in fact if you have the budget get a new computer all together. the bare minimum amount of RAM you should have these days is 4gb. most standard rigs come with 8 now. I'll be bumping mine from 8 to 16 the next chance i get, but thats because of what i need out of my computer.Cade said:
512 MB of RAM. It's 5 years old I think.
a 5 year old rig should still last you a while depending on what you use it for and with proper upgrades, so you could just get the ram. however i'd venture to say your rig is much older than 5 years if it only came with 512mb of RAM. my previous rig which should be coming up on 6 years now came with 4 gigs and it was a mid to low tier computer from best buy. If it's more than 5 years old it also probably won't be compatible with RAM you can find in stores these days, so you should check for that before making any purchases.
if anyone's got any knowledge w/ word, i need some help opening up a file made on an older version of word(2003, i think). i'm getting an error message about conversion. i've tried the other 2 encodes:MS-DOS is blank and Other is the same as the default.
i'm using word 2010 starter and running windows7 64-bit(if that's of any concern).
i'm using word 2010 starter and running windows7 64-bit(if that's of any concern).
I still have 2003. Is there anything special about the file? If you're not using some very MS Word *.doc specific features, dump it to me and I can try converting it to another format for you. (I prefer and use *.rtf for more universal compatibility.)
On a sidenot, where did you get the file from? The image has content that makes the data no look like a Word file...
On a sidenot, where did you get the file from? The image has content that makes the data no look like a Word file...
balloon tied(granted you still use the shared folder). if you could do both of them for me i'd greatly appreciate it.
i made the file on my desktop, which runs xP w/ '03 installed. saved it to a flash drive since i had to give the comp. to my mom for her to use and i'm trying to open it on a newer laptop w/ W7 and '10 starter on it.
i made the file on my desktop, which runs xP w/ '03 installed. saved it to a flash drive since i had to give the comp. to my mom for her to use and i'm trying to open it on a newer laptop w/ W7 and '10 starter on it.
*sigh* I thought as much from the screenshot: Chapter 2 got corrupt. It just contains the gibberish chars you saw during the conversion question. (Hex code 0xFF across the whole file, so something wiped the file to all 1's in binary). Is that the original file?
Chapter 1 is converted for you to RTF. No warning on save, so the formatting should still be as you had it. You might be able to open Chapter 1 in DOC format with no problems, actually, if you haven't tried that file yet.
Chapter 1 is converted for you to RTF. No warning on save, so the formatting should still be as you had it. You might be able to open Chapter 1 in DOC format with no problems, actually, if you haven't tried that file yet.
thanks!
do you think 2 will still open in '03? if so, is it possible i can convert it to just a .txt file and add the formatting later?
do you think 2 will still open in '03? if so, is it possible i can convert it to just a .txt file and add the formatting later?
No, I mean literally, the entire file (from first bit to last bit) is all 1's. The whole file is just 319,488 ones (1's) in raw bits. (39,936 FF's in Hex or ÿ in text.) There is no actual data in it at all. I opened it in Word '03 as well as with a hex viewer. It's a dead file. It's not a format conversion problem: there is nothing for it to convert.
Something corrupted that file or during copying it never copied over correctly. (Or Word crashed while trying to save it the last time you used it.)
I'd try to hunt down the original file to see if it's still valid.
Something corrupted that file or during copying it never copied over correctly. (Or Word crashed while trying to save it the last time you used it.)
I'd try to hunt down the original file to see if it's still valid.
Can someone suggest a good ramdisk software, i was out of luck so far error after error.
I need it to compile software from it.
I need it to compile software from it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_RAM_disk_software
Typically, Open Source projects are good at fixing incompatibilities.
Typically, Open Source projects are good at fixing incompatibilities.
Anybody has experience with the:
'Java could not create virtual machine' error message with minecraft?
Believe it has something to do with the allocated memory. Tried the stuff on the internet, but I'm not using a legit minecraft so those hints and tips usually end up with a wrong minecraft version.
I do get the message when I try to launch a .bat file.
'Java could not create virtual machine' error message with minecraft?
Believe it has something to do with the allocated memory. Tried the stuff on the internet, but I'm not using a legit minecraft so those hints and tips usually end up with a wrong minecraft version.
I do get the message when I try to launch a .bat file.
Im not sure why i came here, im clueless when it comes to this kind of stuff. You guys might as well be speaking japanese... then again ive picked up a few phrases and terms by watching subbed anime so this is worse x_x
FoliFF
over 13 years agoAnd of cource I put new thermal paste with nice amount. Not to much or little and I smoothed it all out on the CPU before I put my cooler on it. Otherwise the CPU won't be pretty after a while.